More than just an investment in style, a man's shoe plays a pivotal part in affecting the way he walks and the health of his lower back. When selecting a new shoe, it is important to consider all aspects of the design, from shoe stitching to heel construction to materials used.

 

In this piece we dive into the core elements of shoe stitching, tugging at the seams of what makes our shoes great and how you can keep them looking their best for many for years to come.

 


 

 

Shoe Stitching Styles

 

Two of the most common methods of shoe stitching, knowing the difference between a cemented or blake stitched sole can help ensure you're buying the right shoe for the right occasion.

 

 

Cementing

 

The most common method in shoe production, Cementing is the practice of attaching the sole of the shoe using adhesive with no Welting and little to no stitching.

 

While this method is perfect for sneakers, chukkas and shoes with a rubber sole, cementing is widely considered to be an inferior technique for premium leather shoes. This comes from the fact that once torn or separated from the upper, neither the heel nor sole can be reattached properly.

 

 

Blake Welt

 

Soles with soul, Blake stitch construction was a byproduct of the industrial revolution, only made possible by the invention of machinery specifically designed to stitch the inside of a shoe.

 

Image Assets - Shoe Stitching mid

 
 

The technique involves running a straight stitch through the insole and then sealing the base with a waterproof adhesive. This creates a much more reliable connection between the sole and upper shell than standard fusing.

 

Image Assets - Shoe Stitchinging toe feat

 
 

Unlike the a the cementing technique, a Blake Welt Shoe can easily be re-soled. The additional advantage and the core reason why we use this stitch across our entire range, is the flexibility of the sole, giving you a much more comfortable fit.

 


 

 

The Long Game

 

Clean, condition and polish: the three core rule to keep your leather shoes alive and kicking.

 

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1. Clean

 

Dampen a sponge and gently lather up the surface of the shoe. If your shoes are particularly muddy, be rinse the sponge regularly.

 

Once clean of dirt, grime and dust, leave your shoes to dry at room temperature. Avoid using blow dryers or heating units as this may dry out or damage the leather.

 
 

2. Conditioning

 

It may sound gross but you should treat your leather like you do your skin. Moisturise regularly with shoe conditioner to help prevent the leather drying out and cracking. If you frequently wear the same pair of shoe, be sure to moisturise every 10-15 wears to ensure your shoe look the best they can, for the longest posible time.

 
 

3. Polish

 

One of the most important parts of shoe maintenance, regular polishing can drastically increase the longevity of a leather shoe. Ensure that the polish you're applying is the same colour as the shoe and slowly work it into the upper. Use a cloth or shoe brush and apply with slow concentric circles.

 

Once the leather is completely covered, be sure to let it sit for five minutes and let the polish work its way in. Get a shoe brush and gently brush over the entire shoe to clean off excess polish.

 

Get a soft cloth or polishing sponge and buff the shoe until it shines to your satisfaction.

 


 
 

Explore our new collection of men's leather shoes and stamp down your style.